Food for Thought

Recently, I was having lunch with my Xhosa “daughter”, Nosibabalo, at one of our local restaurants.  Nosi and I always have the most interesting conversations, learning from each other about our different countries, cultures, and life experiences — oh so very different.  I learn a lot from listening to Nosi’s stories and her perspective on the world she knows so well.  During this particular lunch she educated me once again.  

Nosi spoke to me about her new part-time job at a local restaurant, ironically called “Dixie’s” – southern food `a la the cape peninsula.  I assumed Nosi worked as a server.

“You won’t see any darkies in the front of the restaurant!” she said.

I was sure I hadn’t heard correctly.  “Did you just say ‘darkies’?”

“Yes.  What’s wrong with that? ”

“If you said that in the U.S., you’d be called out for being racist.  It’s the same for calling someone ‘colored’, even though here in South Africa, that’s an accepted and specific segment of the population.”

Nosi was stunned.  “How can there be no colored people?!  If the parents are one black and one white, what is the child?”

“In the U.S., if your parents are of mixed race, you are black; for example, President Obama.  His mother was white, but he was considered to be black.”

“No!  Even if this is the case, if the father is white and the mother is black, the child must be white, because it is the father’s line that counts.”

“That’s a good point, but in the U.S., that’s not how it’s interpreted.  You’re black or white, and if any part of you is black, you’re black.”

This made no sense to Nosi.  Shaking her head, she went back to the restaurant topic.

“The manager says that the patrons are racist and they don’t want to see black people serving their food.  So only whites and coloreds are allowed to be in the front.  But those patrons are cr-r-r-r-azy (she rolls her “r’s” in her Xhosa accent), because I am in the back with Zimbabweans and other Xhosa and we are preparing their food with our own dark hands!”

It seems the U.S. and South Africa have some things in common.  For one, there’s still a percentage of people who perceive that the color of someone’s skin should define their role in society.  I agree with Nosi.  Those people are crazy.  Roll the “r’s” please.

Women’s March in Cape Town

 

 

 

 

 

Return to the Cape – Part IV

For the fourth time, since June 2014, I find myself in the cape peninsula south of Cape Town.  It is high summer and the weather is brilliant – the word “brilliant” being a favourite adjective here in South Africa – and the perfect adjective to describe the daily high’s of low 70’s to low 80’s; mid-60’s at night; sunny, breezy and low humidity.  The sun doesn’t set until after 8:00 p.m.

Sunset at my cottage

Surfer off Longbeach, Kommetjie

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have already been busy this first week, meeting with a few of my contacts, as well as friends and former colleagues.  During my five-month stay this time, I will be working with the NGO, Ikamva Youth based in the Masiphumelele Library.  I look forward to tutoring young students and participating in additional group activities.  In the meantime, I am reunited with my two Xhosa “daughters”, Nosibabalo (24) and Lihle (Lisa) (9).

Much has happened since my last post in May 2016 and I will cover these intervening events later.  Suffice it to say, that the two NGOs involved with the Pink House (one managing and the other, the owner of the property) had a full-blown falling out.  Due to this deterioration, the partnership between them collapsed, to the detriment of the Pink House.  Therefore, I am moving on to other volunteer opportunities.  I miss the Pink House and my dear friends there – but we were all turned out by the NGO-owner and there’s no going back.

Nevertheless, I am exhilarated to be back in Kommetjie and Masi.  I was able to be here for Lihle’s first day of 4th grade (school year here is January through December with breaks in June/July and December/January).  The day before school began, Lihle and I went to pick up her school supplies.  Afterward we stopped at my cottage and I gave her the tea set I brought from the U.S. as a Christmas present.  I think it went over pretty well! (see below).  Nosi (“Nah-see), is finishing up at False Bay College and we will be focusing on employment opportunities while I am here.  I am so proud of both of them.  They have worked hard – determined, courageous, strong – girl and woman – overcoming challenges and hardships we cannot envisage.

Lisa’s surprise

My beautiful Nosi

My landlady, Jackie, welcomed me back to my little cottage – which I love!  I am so comfortable here.  Each time I arrive, she adds many thoughtful touches to my surroundings.  Because there are no screens in S.A., I don’t like to leave my window open at night.  I don’t want to be surprised by uninvited visitors (and since there are burglar bars, I’m actually referring to small to medium-sized insects).

As a surprise, clever Jackie invented a screen out of fabric and figured out how to fix it to the left panel of the window.  Since the window has inside handles and opens outward, this was a tricky business.  The results are amazing and I am delighted!

And of course, I am reunited with Mittens the Cat.  He is having health issues in his advanced age, but he loves his tuna, his daily

Jackie and me on Longbeach, July 2016

sunbaths on the brick walk, naps in the afternoon, and still comes to my cottage every day for a little drink of water.  Mittens – Rock On!

Action shot: Mittens takes a Catnap

Jackie’s fabric screen invention

This morning I walked on the beach for the first time since I returned.  It was a stunning morning.  Instead of the usual colours of blues and grays, the ocean was different shades of emerald green.  The sky was its usual deep cerulean blue.  Lihle and I walked the beach together.  I watched her run through the cold water waves and do cartwheels in the sand.  She was laughing and smiling and running back to me at intervals, just because.  Our walk was…brilliant.  I have no pictures – you’ll have to take my word for it.

 

 

 

 

 

My Favorite Things

Afternoon tea in the office

My favorite part of the day at the Pink House is the afternoon.  The soup kitchen has finished serving the clients, the workshops and other activities are over and it’s quiet inside the building.  In my office, the breeze blows through the barred windows and flutters the thin discolored curtains. One block away, children begin to wander out of the Ukanyo primary school and their voices carry their Xhosa language and laughter through the streets.

 

Nosi, Derek and Lifa

I enjoy conversations with Derek, the dedicated caretaker; Lifa, the Zimbabwean refugee; Nosibobalo, (“Nah-see”) my “adopted” Xhosa daughter; and the many other interesting and diverse people that cross my path on a weekly basis. In November, I met an 8-year old girl named Lisa.  She wandered into my office one afternoon and we become fast friends.  She is a delight – we laugh and share activities together, including our recent visit to the Two Oceans Aquarium in Cape Town, along with Nosi and her daughter,  Siema.

Parking lot attendants – friendly and helpful.

I like the guys from Masiphumelele that have created jobs by organizing themselves into parking attendants covering every area possible.  Wearing yellow vests, they indicate where parking is available, help you with your shopping cart, load your car, and provide guidance as you back out of your space.  First and foremost, they prevent theft and in return for their services, each driver gives them 5 rand — equivalent to about 60 cents.

Similarly, when you go the gas station, you get full service – just like the old days in the U.S.  The attendants pump your gas, clean your windshield, and check the water, oil and tires.  I feel quite spoiled – for this service, I give them 10 or 20 rand.

Full service means FULL service…

My doctor’s office is in his home.  When I go to him for an appointment, there is no wait time.  You are called at the exact time of your appointment on the dot.  The only staff is the receptionist and paperwork is minimal.  The doctor is thorough, kind and knowledgeable.  The cost for a visit is about $25.00.

Due to the minimal existence of major industrial sites, the air in southern Africa is always clean and fresh.  Gentle to strong winds blow over the cape peninsula keeping the humidity low most of the time.

I love the way the mountains sweep down to

Kommetjie Lighthouse, Atlantic Ocean

the small towns – Noordhoek, Kommetjie, and Scarborough on the west coast, and Kalk Bay, Fish Hoek, and Simon’s Town on the east coast, along the curve of False Bay.  I love the extraordinary beauty of Cape Point with its lush vegetation, especially the proteas and fynbos that grace the landscape.  The walk on Longbeach or on the Kom down to the Kommetjie lighthouse is always inspiring.

The overwhelming number of sunny days brings all the colors of the landscape, houses, and shops into sharp focus against the dark shade of the trees.  The sky is a startling cerulean blue and perfect foil to the bright blooms that grow along high fences and walls. The sky is crystal clear on most nights and without the interference of ambient light, the stars are brilliant, twinkling like tiny diamonds against midnight blue.   At every phase, the glowing moon is sharply outlined above the sea and as it moves across the sky to hover over the mountains.

Dogs running through the surf with their owners, the guinea fowl pecking away under a tree, the occasional baboons wandering along Kommetjie Road, and the flamingos wading in the Kom…the sound of ocean waves, orange glow of sunsets, the mist rolling down the mountains and settling in smokey wisps throughout the valley, and the hint of wood smoke in the evening air…these are a few of my favorite things.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It has been several months since I’ve posted from South Africa…thank you for continuing to follow me – despite my procrastinating ways.

 

Fire and Rain

Fire and flooding are the two biggest threats to the residents in Masiphumelele (Masi).  The danger is greater to those living in the wetlands.  Originally known as Site 5, Masi began as an informal settlement in the 1980s, before the end of Apartheid.  Domestic workers and labourers began squatting in locations around what became Site 5, because it was not practical for them to return daily to their “assigned” township, known as Khayelitsha, almost 40 kilometre’s away. After several forcible removals from the area, the workers prevailed and plans were made with the city municipality to settle 5,000 people on the site.

Although there is no formal census, it is widely believed that Site 5, now known as Masiphumelele, is approaching a population of 40,000.  This severe overpopulation of land intended for 5,000 residents, has pushed the poorest of the poor into the wetlands.  The shacks built in the wetlands are built side by side with no proper roads – only narrow passages wide enough for one person.  If you’re an outsider, it is not possible to walk through the wetlands without a guide.

Fire in the wetlands last May; 40 shacks burned down, fortunately no injuries.

Fires usually begin when a paraffin stove is tipped over. In May, 40 shacks burned down; fortunately there were no injuries.The flames spread quickly and engulf shacks within seconds.  Adults and children know the consequences of delay and act instantly – running for the lives, sometimes grabbing a few of their meager belongings as they flee.  Two weeks ago, another 80 shacks burned down.  The culprit was a man who had too much to drink and left his stove unattended.  Some residents wanted to kill him; in the end they settled for banishing him from Masi.

Within hours, the City of Cape Town’s Disaster Relief Management begins determining the number of families affected and usually the corrugated steel, timber, and windows necessary to rebuild the shacks are delivered to the site the following day.  The residents – along with neighbors and friends – rebuild the shacks together.  The process takes about 3 days.

Clothing distribution at the Community Hall.

Worried children watch the fire

Having lost most or all of their belongings, victims of the fire turn to the Community Hall where clothing and a few household items are distributed.  The Pink House joins with other  NGOs to contribute clothing and blankets.

During the winter rainy season, flooding is also a concern.  From May to the beginning of September, heavy rain floods the wetlands.  The labyrinth between shacks and the floors of each shack, become saturated and in many cases, standing water becomes the norm.  Roofs often leak and the water drips onto bedding and clothing and runs down the inner walls.  There is no insulation in the shacks and the majority of residents in the wetlands have no electricity.  If a family is fortunate, they will have a paraffin stove to heat the room.

Residents wait to fill their water buckets and basins at communal tap.

There is no running water, so residents share the tap at the end of the row of outdoor toilets used by those assigned in each district.  I attended a meeting where a group came together to discuss the egregious conditions Masi residents face every day.  One participant shared that statistically, there are nearly 50 people using each outdoor toilet.  Toilet paper is too costly so the residents use torn up newspaper.  It is not safe or convenient for people to leave their shacks at night, so each shack has a “night bucket” to use as a toilet.  In the morning, everyone tosses the contents wherever they can .

The shack number for toilet assignments is painted on the front of each door.

Laundry is done by hand in round plastic basins filled at the communal tap and clothes are hung out to dry on sunny days.  However, no one in South Africa seems to have a clothes dryer – clothes are hung out to dry at every household.  Similarly, virtually no one has indoor heating during the winter months.  When the winter gales blow across the Cape Peninsula the cold and damp creeps into your bones.

While fire and rain are among the biggest crises Masi experiences on an annual basis, other urgent issues are food security, overcrowding in the one primary school and one high school for the children living in Masi, poor quality of education, drugs, alcohol and an extremely high rate of teenage pregnancy.

As past history demonstrates and the future will tell, these issues form the recipe for deep anger and frustration over the daily challenge to survive.  Many strive to rise above the hand they were dealt, working to make their lives better and to improve the chances for their children’s future.  In many ways, Apartheid continues to be a deeply ingrained influence on South African communities, with separation among blacks, coloureds and whites.  Each group has their separate community with little or no opportunity for the black and “coloured” populations to choose where to live.  Most Masi residents work as domestics or day labourers in construction or landscaping because the environment and educational system do not prepare people for better jobs or professional level positions.  For most it is a generational cycle of never ending poverty and lack of opportunities.  There has been incremental change, notably in the larger cities, but in most of the country, the status quo prevails.

 

 

 

 

The Pink House – What’s in a Name?

Masi Soup Kitchen

When I arrived back in the Cape Peninsula last February, it was clear that the “To Do” list for the Pink House was a long one, filled with expensive but necessary repairs and maintenance projects. The first order of business was to stabilize the soup kitchen, which is vital to the clients referred to us by the Masiphumelele Clinic.  The Facilities Manager, Derek, had worked hard to keep the soup kitchen open without funding and without fully functioning kitchen appliances.  He did an amazing job, but things were hanging by the proverbial thread.

After reaching out to two local parishes who were long-time supporters of the soup kitchen, we were able to get the sink and a sewage problem repaired, recess the gas burners into an alcove to remove them from the middle of the kitchen(!), happily received an almost new, large capacity refrigerator freezer, and had the brick walkway repaired leading up to the kitchen window where the food is served to our clients. The Masi Soup Kitchen has been in operation for 22 years, and currently serves approximately 50 meals a day – to both clients and their eligible dependents.  All clients are on TB or antiretroviral drugs and must have a meal in order to take their medication.

Sometimes after the soup kitchen closes late morning, the staff gathers for a tea break.

In early May, we were approached by a neighboring NGO – the HOKISA Home for kids affected by HIV/AIDS (see my previous blog post, “Getting to Know You…” posted on 12 July 2014).  HOKISA very generously offered to fund urgent repairs, such as the Pink House roof and window frames, and to provide paint and labour for all the trim work on the Pink House.  We were also able to get exterior doors repaired and many other small repairs that were urgently needed.  The donated paint for the trim work was a beautiful sea foam green.  Our only disappointment was that we still couldn’t afford to paint the entire exterior of the building – which was in pretty bad shape.  We looked into the cost and found that to maintain the existing pale pink colour would be too expensive because the exterior paint was a special mix.  We thought this part of the face lift would have to be put on hold indefinitely.

Trim work in progress – we love the sea foam green!

Fortunately, through an additional donation, we were able to come to an agreement with the contractor to paint the entire building at a discount.  He gave us exterior paint examples for the colour choice.  We were concerned about leaving the pink colour behind, because the building has been fondly known as the “Pink House” since 1994.  But there was no alternative from a financial standpoint.

We decided to ask the Xhosa ladies working at the NGO, Living Hope, which rents office space in the Pink House, what their opinion was on choosing a new colour.  We showed several of the ladies the choices at various times over the course of the day.  To our amazement, they all chose the same colour sample.  It was called ‘Brush Fire’.  We asked them why they selected that shade and their answer was that it is the colour of the mineral found in the Imbhola stone.  The stone is ground and formed into a paste to spread over the skin.  It’s still used today as the traditional way to treat skin conditions and as an effective sunscreen.

We had some apprehension about changing the colour of the building so radically, but it also seemed like an opportunity to demonstrate to Masi residents that the Pink House would again flourish and become the vibrant community centre people had come to know and love.

Finished project, complete with new planters at the front entrance.

The only question was – would it still be known as the Pink House?

Everyone seems to love the result – especially those of us that work in the building.  It looks fresh and clean – and very welcoming.  Only a few people have asked how we can continue to call it the “Pink House”?  But the residents seem to have no problem continuing with the traditional name.  It will always be known as the Pink House, a place many people rely on in the heart of the Masi community.

Now when anyone questions the name – I say, OK, it’s salmon pink, so close enough.  We may have changed the colour, but what the community centre represents remains the same – so what’s in a name?

This is my first post since last April!  I hope to catch up a little in the next couple of weeks.  Thank you for following me!  

Patience and Perspective

When I first arrived in Cape Town on 2 February, there were few options for places to stay in Kommetjie.  Summer is high season and this area is highly desirable as a holiday location.  There are no hotels or motels – private cottages or guest houses are the available options.  Through friends of Peter and Alison Fenton’s (my World Teach mentors), I was lucky to find a cottage just outside the centre of Kommetjie.  It’s a one-bedroom accommodation attached to the home of Gary and Jackie.  Jackie has been wonderful and welcoming to me.  Gary works on a ship that provides maintenance to oil rigs and he is away for several weeks at a time, so Jackie and I keep each other company and pop back and forth every day.  It is also the home of Mittens, an elderly gentleman cat, enjoying his last years in retirement.

It took time to settle in – getting comfortable in the cottage and finding a suitable rental car.  One of the differences I notice here is the fact that when one is looking for a specific item to purchase (or a car rental), sometimes the answer is, “sorry we’re out of that item.”  Really?  When will you have [what I want] available?  “Not sure…could be a week from Thursday or possibly next August.

Living area at No. 8 Riverside Road – yes, that’s Mittens.

I wanted to rent an automatic compact for the long-term, but none were available for several weeks, so in the end I got a little Nissan Micra, stick shift (manual here).  I was a little concerned because I already had to remember to drive on the left side of the road and now I would be shifting with my left hand.  But I went for it and I love this zippy car and can drive down the road like a born Capetonian.

People go with the flow here and I can see why.  I quickly discovered that there is a requirement called “load shedding”. The power company, Eskom, is unable to supply electricity demands on a daily basis, so for 2 hours a day (although not necessarily every day), the electricity goes off.  The two-hour time frame varies so unless you follow the schedule, you are easily taken by surprise.  In addition, sometimes the power company changes its mind and the two hours gets moved around.  So here’s the scenario – you go to the mall to shop and as you walk in – all the lights go out and the smaller shops all close.  The grocery store and large clothing store – Woolworth’s – stay open with a generator.  If you head into a restaurant, sometimes the waiter will say – oh, there’s load shedding in 10 minutes so you’re limited to what you can order and you have to pay cash after the power goes out.  Except for major intersections with generators, the traffic lights go out!  You would not believe how polite everyone is on the road during power outages.  (And BTW, traffic lights here are called “robots”).  At home – it means no wifi (yow!) and if it’s after sunset it’s dark. They have these nifty little mason jars that have been turned into solar lights – not sure if they have these in the U.S., but they are very handy.

Opening a bank account was an eye opener – I went to four banks before I was deemed account worthy.  At the fourth bank which actually has a special account for resident volunteers, it took two hours for the bank rep to set it up.  In the meantime, the line of people waiting behind me was just about out the door.  I had a wad of rand (12 rand to the dollar) to deposit – and after the two hours, the bank rep told me that I was better off depositing it into the outside ATM, because the fee to deposit money into your account is very expensive if you do it inside the bank.

Somehow I find the differences amusing and refreshing.  People are very patient – waiting in line, changing their schedules on the whim of the power company, and making a trip to buy an item that is unavailable.  These are minor quirks in the routine compared to the challenge for people living in poverty, who have no job and no prospect of one, who may be hungry and cold (or roasting in their aluminum shacks), and cannot provide adequate food or shelter for their children.

During my first week back in Masiphumelele (Masi), I was privileged to meet Mama Lucy.  She is a wonderful Xhosa woman who has an informal creche (nursery/pre-school) in a shack in the wetlands.  She cares for several children, ages 2 mos. to 5 years.  There are no windows in the shack.  The ceiling is draped with black plastic to keep out the rain and the floor is hard-packed earth.  During the winter rainy season, the floor is wet all the time.  I met her through Peter Fenton and three Swedish social workers who were visiting in February.

Mama Lucy and one of her young charges.

They were delightful young women and they brought funds to purchase new toys for Mama Lucy’s creche, as well as a thick matte for the floor.  One evening, we treated Mama Lucy to a dinner in Kommetjie (the white neighborhood) – she has been living in Masi for years and had never been to Kommetjie, ten minutes away.  Listening to her life-story and how she became the loving, nurturing second mother to so many small children was very moving and humbling.

Inside the creche

Mama Lucy happily receives a new two-burner/mini-oven from a U.K. donor.

Working here as a volunteer is teaching me patience and perspective.  Acceptance of life’s challenges is not necessarily resignation.  It is more about living in the moment and taking each day as it comes.

Thank you for following me on my journey.  Next time – progress at the Pink House.  Did anyone spot my homage to Karen Blixen (aka Isak Dinesen) in my last post?  Send me your comments!

Into South Africa – Return to the Cape Peninsula

I have a community centre in Africa at the foot of the Table Mountain range.  It is summer and the days are uniformly spectacular.  The temperature ranges from 16C – 22C on most days.  A breeze blows all the time – sometimes turning into heavy gusts of wind.  But this phenomena keeps the temperature cool.  There is no air conditioning here and no screens – whether you live in Kommetjie or the township of Masiphumelele.  The doors and windows are open for natural air flow.

Local hair salon

In the township, they are not so fortunate because there is no air flow in a corrugated aluminum shack.  The shacks get stuffy and heated under the cloudless sky, so if at all possible, men, women, and children are constantly on the move.  They ripple through the labyrinth of shacks, gather into larger streams, and wash out into the roadways from every direction.  It is a challenge to drive through Masi and avoid the wandering pedestrians, children, starving dogs, the occasional chicken, and reckless mini-buses that serve as taxi service to the community.  Add to this, driving on the opposite side of the road and a manual shift with the left hand, and you have a recipe calling for a large measure of intense concentration at all times.  Masi is contained by fencing, walls, and the wetlands. By design, there is only one entrance into and out of the township.

Tuck shop in Masi

During the day Masipumelele is a vibrant town, with a thriving informal market, several NGOS, a library supported by the municipality of Cape Town, and hundreds of small businesses, including internet cafes, repair shops, micro-convenience stores known as “tuck” shops (although better described as food tins), endless “creches” (nursery/pre-schools), and the curb-side clothing store, where clothing is strewn along the street for the passerby to view, sift through, and purchase if so inclined.

Although the 40,000 residents are primarily Xhosa people, indigenous to South Africa, there are now many refugees settled in Masi, mainly from Zimbabwe (Zim), Malawi, the Congo, and Somalia.  Due to the unemployment rate, which may be as high as 80%, the increasingly diverse population creates tension within the

Clothes shopping in Masi

community.  Most workers are domestic workers or laborers, who

travel each day to the local towns, such as Noordhoek, Fish Hoek, Sunnydale, and Kommetjie. By night, Masi can be a dangerous place for muggings, break-ins, and street brawls.  Alcoholism is rampant and there are countless derelict bars called shabeens operating throughout the community.  If you are white or “coloured”, it is not safe to travel through Masi at night.

In the middle of Masi sits the community centre known as the Pink House.  This is where I worked last summer and the reason I spent four months working on the long-term visa to return to South Africa.  On 11 February, I went to the Pink House to see my colleagues from Masi, who have faithfully looked after the centre:  Derek, the coloured caretaker (as designated in South Africa), Nosi (“Nah-see”), the young Xhosa woman, Michelle, a white South African living in Masi, Lifa, a young Zimbabwean, and Mama Lillian, the Xhosa cook in the soup kitchen.  The warmth and excitement of the greeting I received made all the effort to return more than worthwhile.  There is much to be done to address the tsunami of need.  I’m happy to be back and ready to work with the team – first priority, fully stocking and upgrading the soup kitchen.

The Team: Nosi, Michelle, Mama Lillian, Derek (back) and Lifa

Nosi relaxing at the Pink House, with Tammy – one of Derek’s little dogs.

Thank you for following me on the second part of my journey…to be continued.

Small Victories…

Our World Teach experience concluded in August, and I am writing this post on 11 February 2015.  This demonstrates that I can be a procrastinator of the first order.

After the volunteers returned from our 5-day safari adventure, I realized the first day back that I was coming down with something.  It turned out to be a flu/bronchitis combo.  A trip to the Kommetjie doctor fixed me up with antibiotics and cough syrup, but I was down for the count.  I curled up in my cozy bed with my faithful iPad and “worked” on recovery.

The bummer was that I missed so much time with the other volunteers during the final week; missed time working at the Pink House; and finally, missed a fantastic farewell event for the WT volunteers at the Masi Library.  Our little friend Kwami was there and he told one of the volunteers it was the “best night of his life.”

Friday, 14 August was the volunteers’ last day.  I was due to stay until the 25th.  They were all leaving over the weekend.  Friday night was my last opportunity to say goodbye to everyone.  I drove over  to Ocean View – although still miserable, not contagious – and said goodbye to Noel, Wendy, Jackie, and Emma. Later visited the group house so I could see Britney, Sarah, Dina, Ashley, Lacy, and Elaine. Our shared experience had bonded us all into a family and it was difficult to accept that we would never be in the same place in space or time again. I could not stay very long, partly because I felt so ill and partly because I could not face prolonging the emotion.

Little church at Kalk Bay

I spent most of the final week recuperating.  I was only able to go to the Pink House for two days at the end of the week.  It was very hard to say goodbye to Derek, Nosi and Lifa, but we agreed that I would be back, possibly as soon as October 2014.  The last weekend was beautiful and I attended the Holy Trinity Anglican Church at Kalk Bay.  Afterward, I walked through the little town and had lunch with Peter and Alison – a very nice way to end my stay.

I do want to express some concluding thoughts on our extraordinary adventure in a far away country, with magical mountains and roiling ocean waves; bold clouds scudding across the horizon; exquisite carpets of  wild flowers and shrubs; the warmth of cross-cultural friendships; and the innocent smiles and hugs of the children we met along the way.

Before

It can be challenging as a volunteer, wondering what difference you can or will make in the midst of a tsunami of need.  Success may be a matter of incremental achievements, some successes appearing marginal to a volunteer, but a leap forward to a resident of  Masiphumelele.  You can never tell what combination of words and actions may have the power to change someone’s life.

One activity that brought practical help at no cost was what I call, The Miracle of the Organic Garden.  In a matter of weeks, the South African Navy cleared a large patch of land on the grounds of the Pink House (their contribution to Mandela Day), another group of volunteers offered to build raised beds, the local nursery donated the seedlings and compost, an expert in organic gardening from one of the local churches provided guidance, and the NGO, Deaf Hands at Work, donated the wood for the raised beds.   It was a team effort that resulted in a flourishing garden in support of the soup kitchen. Cost of creating the garden = 0; bountiful results = priceless.

After

 

When describing the garden project to a friend of mine, he summed up my thoughts on our World Teach summer…”that [we] made some good friends and the whole experience was enriching and rewarding in its brush with uncommon human suffering, austere conditions, teamwork and celebration of small victories.”

In the Xhosa language, “Masiphumelele” means “Let’s Succeed.”  And we did succeed, with small victories each and every day.

Thank you for following me and stay tuned for Part II of my South African Adventure as I return to Kommetjie, Masiphumelele and the Pink House…

 

The Volunteers’ Excellent Safari Adventure, Part 2

On the second morning at Aquila Game Preserve, we were up early in the a.m. for the dawn game drive.  It was very cold when we got up.  Our room was not heated (once the fire went out), and the shower was an outdoor set-up built into a curved stone surround attached to the room.

 Wendy and I took turns – at first it seemed daunting, but the water was hot and the water pressure was great, so it was just a matter of running out and back in as quickly as possible – something I was already used to with  the always cold bathroom in my cottage.  The cold morning air was invigorating – gets your blood moving.  We gathered in the main lodge for tea and rusks (a hardy form of biscotti that is a very popular breakfast carb in South Africa).  The game drive was chilly, but we had our forest green fleece blankets and were muffled in our jackets and scarves.  As the light came up, we saw a number of different animals, including elands, water buffalo, more hippos, zebras, ostrich, and giraffe (which we did not see the night before).

Water buffalo running toward the game drive truck – he rammed it so hard, I thought for sure he would be injured. But he was OK and so were we.

Eland up close

After a couple of wonderful hours visiting the animals, we returned to the lodge for a full breakfast.  Forified for the day, we packed up and we were off for the 650 kilometer drive through Montague, Barrydale, and Ladismith – past the stunning Swartberg Moutains.

 

 

Our notable rest stop was at Ronnie’s Sex Shop.  Ronnie had a little food shop – basic lunchtime fare and drinks, but he was unable to attract many customers along the route.  Many years ago, a friend of his suggested that he rename “Ronnie’s” and call it, “Ronnie’s Sex Shop”.

 

Ronnie and his unique decor

 

Not to disappoint the clientele, over the years his many new customers began autographing and hanging up their bras on the ceiling.  Undoubtedly, Ronnie has the largest bra collection in the world – outside of Victoria’s Secret. (I swear I only autographed the wall and left no personal item behind).

We drove on through Oudtshoorne (Old Horn in Afrikaans), and due south to George along the Indian Ocean.  The landscape – narrow mountain passes, foothills, valleys, and the port of George – was breathtaking.  Passing through Knysna (Nizna), we arrived at the backpackers’ hostel, Fair Knowe in Wilderness.  It was one of the coldest nights on the trip and the accommodations were basic.  I had a large room to myself with 3 other empty beds, so I put a total of 4 duvets on my bed for warmth.  I was cozy all night – like a bug wrapped in cotton wool.  The next day was glorious  – clear and in the high 60s.  The volunteers enjoyed a morning poking around the Wild Oaks Market in Sedgefield.  Different kinds of food, pastries, coffee and cold drinks, crafts of carved wooden animals, masks, salad bowls, trays, paintings, colorful fabrics, clothing, health foods, scarves, jewelry and purses, etc.  Afterward, we walked on the beach at Buffelbaai (Buffalo Bay), and drove on to the backpackers’ called Wild Spirit in The Crags.  It was a haven in the wilderness; a rambling structure cacooned in the 1960s.

Bar and dining area at Wild Spirit

After settling into our rooms, we were invited into the “dress-up” room to choose crazy costumes for an after dinner dance party.  We danced the night away and had SO much fun.  We were happily immersed in the time warp and everything was groovy.

On our last full day, some of the volunteers arranged to go bungee jumping at Bloukrans in the Eastern Cape (I was not one of them).  The rest of us hung out in the restaurant watching from the plate glass window, with close ups provided on a big screen T.V.  Everyone came through the experience with flying colors.  It was amazing to watch, but I felt very comfortable with my decision not to jump.

Jackie, Wendy, Noel, Emma – party on!

It was the last night of the trip and there was a Full Moon Rising – and a Super Moon as well. I sat next to the fire and watched the incredible golden moon float out from the clouds above the mountain range. It was magical.

The day of our return to the Cape Peninsula arrived, but before we took to the road, some of us visited an elephant sanctuary, and others visited the monkey preserve.  I chose the elephants and it was a special experience.  You are allowed to walk with an elephant while he holds your hand with his trunk, and you can feel their ears and pet them.  I can now truthfully say that I’ve touched an elephant’s butt.

The van we were riding in had a slow tire leak, so our coordinator, Peter Fenton, dropped us in the charming town of Knysna for lunch on the waterfront, while he went to have the tire replaced.  It was a beautiful little town and our last real break before the long drive straight back to the Cape.  We arrived “home”  about 9:30 at night.  It was a fantastic and memorable trip.  Peter and Alison Fenton did a magnificent job of planning and executing the logistics for a dozen of us.  Fortunately, our time with World Teach was not quite over – the next day it was back to work at the Pink House and for the other volunteers, back to teaching at their various schools.  There were still a few days left before we had to face goodbye.

Peacock at Aquila Preserve

The Volunteers’ Excellent Safari Adventure – Part 1

It was difficult to grasp that our time with the World Teach program was drawing to an end.  The 12 of us had bonded so completely that we were a volunteer family.  Although I lived on my own in my little cottage, I saw at least some

First day photo op: Jackie, Wendy, Emma, Noel, Peter — Du Toitskloof Pass, between Paarl and Worcester, Western Cape

of the volunteers every day.  Britney, Lacy, Ashley, Dina, Eileen, and Sarah lived in a group house within walking distance of my cottage in Kommetjie (the white community).  Jackie, Wendy, and Emma lived with their host family, Gavin and Lindy, in Ocean View (the coloured community); and Brett and Noel, our two male volunteers, lived with their host family, Leslie and Ron, also in Ocean View.  Everything felt so settled and our lives had become so completely entwined with our communities and schools, it did not seem possible that in a short time we would be leaving this experience behind.

From 7 – 12 August, Peter and Alison Fenton, our WT coordinators, drove all of us (in 2 vans – or combi’s as they are known in S.A.), eastward through the Western Cape, through mountain ranges and down to the Indian Ocean on the southern coast of South Africa.  Although still in the winter season, we were very fortunate that the weather was beautiful most of the time – although quite chilly most evenings and nights.

Afrikaans shop – De Doorns

The first day, we drove up the Cape Peninsula, through Cape Town, and east into the heart of the Western Cape. We drove 400 kilometers through the Klein Karoo and Groot Karoo (little and great karoos); driving for hours without seeing more that a couple of cars, vast empty landscape, and spectacular mountain ranges.  The mountains tower

Jackie, Emma and Wendy in field of flowers at “De Doorns”

over thousands of hectares of succulents and fynbos (fine-bos), a natural shrubland vegetation.  Fynbos (Dutch for fine-leafed plants) is made up of cape reeds, proteas, and ericas.  The King Protea plant is the national flower of South Africa.  The land looks dry and arid, but in the Spring, (our autumn), the valleys and mountains turn into a carpet of flowers.

Peter and Alison were very thoughtful about finding interesting places to stop.  One of our first was a charming shop called De Doorns (The Thorns), where we purchased the popular Western Cape tea called Rooibus (Red Bush) and small tin cups like those used by the Afrikaaners to drink coffee.

Rest stop at De Doorns: Elaine, Ashley, Sarah and Dina

We also had the chance to take pictures in a nearby field of wildflowers (see above).   Driving on, we passed through the Hex River Valley, bordered by the Hex River Mountains, 120 kilometers northeast of Cape Town.  The Hex River Mountains are the 2nd highest mountain range in the Western Cape.  We drove over the Hex River Pass between De Doorns and the Touws River – with dramatic views of rugged mountain peaks and endless valley vistas.

At about 2:00 p.m. the first day, we arrived at our first destination, Aquila Game Reserve.  Aquila is a private game reserve near Touws River, with 4,500 hectares of southern Karoo highlands.  Although it is a small reserve, Aquila is proud of its lions and lion cubs saved from “canned lion” hunting.  Aquila also helps save rhinos from being poached for their horns, and cares for two rescued cheetahs and one leopard – both endangered species.

The lodge and accommodations at Aquila were beautiful and we enjoyed a hearty lunch and were settled into our rooms before the start of the evening game drive.  We boarded the large game vehicle and were glad to see blankets in every seat.  Once the sun starts to go down, it gets very cold in the late afternoon.  The game drive was 3 hours – right through dusk until it was dark.  The excitement was contagious as we came across so many different types of animals, from elephants to hippos to springbok to rhinos.  In all my trips to Africa, I had never seen a big cat.

Off on our game drive adventure

On this drive, for the first time, I saw LIONS – two males and five females.  I was thrilled!  It was cold and clear as the soft streaks of sunset touched the mountaintops.  Thoroughly chilled and hungry, we were happy to go back to the lodge and help ourselves to a fabulous buffet dinner.

The day ended on a very special note.  It was Wendy’s Birthday and after dinner we all gathered in Jackie and Emma’s room to celebrate.  Jackie and Emma had bought a lot of goodies for dessert at the Compass Bakery back near Kommetjie and we used the tin cups we bought at De Doorns for a wine toast.  All the rooms had small fireplaces with a stack of wood and starters, so Jackie began building a fire and the rest of us piled into the bed.  It was family night for World Teach – Peter, Alison and their daughter Ashlin joined us for the celebration.  The warmth of our friendship and special memories of our shared experience filled our hearts and it was an evening I  know I won’t ever forget.

Me, Emma, Britney, Elaine, Dina, Lacy, Sarah, Ashley, and Ashlin (in pink)

Wendy – celebrating her Birthday, and Noel (Jackie just out of the picture, building the fire).

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